Clothes

Transformative bioeconomies: Towards a materials transition (KB-45)

Phasing out fossil feedstock not only requires a transition towards renewable energy, but also a transition towards renewable materials. We need to develop new ways of producing the materials we use (plastics, textiles, building materials, etc.) and also device strategies to support and speed up this transition.

Wageningen University & Research has broad experience in transitions of food systems, but less in relation to the bioeconomy. That is why this investment theme will connect several scientific fields, more specifically ‘sustainability transition studies’ and ‘renewable carbon-based materials’. These fields have so far operated largely separately within Wageningen University & Research and elsewhere.

Connecting

The materials transition requires effective integration of knowledge from several fields:

  1. Expertise in technologies for renewable carbon production, re-use, recycling and de-materialization, based in several natural science disciplines;
  2. Expertise in sustainable and fair transitions, incorporating options and insights from several disciplinary perspectives e.g.sociology, ecology and economics;
  3. Expertise and perspectives from societal stakeholders on whom transition in society eventually critically depends;

The investment theme therefore aims to strengthen the collaboration and coordination between scientists from widely diverging disciplines as well as between these scientists and societal stakeholders. To achieve this we develop innovative methodologies, concepts, tools and modes of working that facilitate enhanced mutual understanding and the integration of knowledge across disciplines and bodies of expertise, and work towards coherent action perspectives for all involved. At the same time we explore, develop and test novel technical, nature-based and/or social solutions and principles that have a potential to contribute to the materials transition, and make these part of a collaborative process.

The investment theme works primarily in the societal sectors of textiles and building materials (interior and housing), but the methods and principles developed are geared to having a wider relevance for research, education and value creation.

About the programme

Phasing out fossil feedstock not only requires a transition towards renewable energy, but also a transition towards renewable materials. We need to develop new ways of producing the materials we use (plastics, textiles, building materials, etc.) and also device strategies to support and speed up this transition. In the investment theme: ‘Transformative Bioeconomies: Towards a materials transition that phases out fossil feedstock’, we aim to connect disciplines from all over WUR to engage in this challenge.

To explore the materials transition, the investment theme focuses on two sectors and on four transition pathways. The two sectors are textiles and building materials. To learn more about the two sectors and their work, see our cases page. The four pathways are; 1) biobased materials, 2) recycling, 3) CO2 capture and utilization technologies, and 4) dematerialization.

Programme logic

We use materials everyday

Materials are all around us. Just like food they are an indispensable part of our everyday life. We wear them, sit on them, drive in them and live in them. In our modern society, we use different types of materials: glass, cement, bricks, metals, etcetera. In this Investment Program we focus on a specific type of materials, the materials that are based on carbon.

Carbon-based materials are made from fossil feedstocks and biomass

Up till now, both fossil feedstocks and biomass are the main suppliers of carbon-based materials. Presently much used biomass-based materials are cotton in textiles, wood in paper and board, and wood in building and interior applications. However, many of the carbon-based materials we have become so accustomed to, are made from fossil resources, mostly from the oil that is also used to produce petrol and diesel. Fossil feedstock-based materials are for instance polyester (in textiles and bottles) and the plastics used in packaging, automotive, and many interior products. In addition paints and glues and the composites in bicycles, wind-turbines and busses, are often of fossil origin.

We need more than a phasing-out of fossil energy

The phasing-out of fossil feedstocks as energy carriers has become a very pressing issue because we need to reduce CO2 emissions in order to combat climate change. At the end of their life-cycle, fossil-based materials are also likely to result in CO2 emissions, which urges us to reduce their use and impact. Phasing out fossil feedstock means that we need to find other ways to make a significant part of our materials, maybe develop new materials, and also to be more caring and aware in our attitude towards the materials we use every day. Without the abundant availability of the cheap and versatile feedstock provided by fossil oil, we are going to face a tough future to clothe ourselves and furnish our homes.

What about circularity?

Circularity is often promoted as the solution for a sustainable future; using less stuff, repairing and reusing products, and recycling as the final end-of-life step. Circularity will definitively need to play an important role, but it can by no means fulfil our total future materials demand. Part of the materials we use get lost during the use phase, due to wear and tear. Also, materials may get contaminated during their use, and they generally degrade on a molecular level during use, which makes them unfit for easy recycling. Circularity is therefore only part of the solution to our future materials use.

We have three technological pathways for making fossil free carbon-based materials

For the sourcing of fossil free carbon-based materials there are three, and only three, technological options: using biomass, applying CO2 capture and utilisation technologies, and using recycled materials. None of these three options alone can fulfil our future materials demand, we are going to need all three of them. In addition to producing materials in a different way, we can address sustainability challenges by being more caring about the materials we use and using less materials in general.

Many solutions are not yet mature

There are promising solutions for alternative production routes towards our materials, but they are in a different stage of development. Some of the materials based on biomass have been used for millennia (e.g. cotton, wool and wood). Others have been introduced more recently, such as bio-plastic packaging materials (made from PLA) and natural fibre reinforced composite materials. However, there also exist many options that are still in an early stage of development (e.g. building new molecules from CO2 or recycling textiles). It will definitely take many years before they have developed into mature technologies, and many may not reach a mature stage at all, because they run into hurdles that cannot be easily tackled.

A materials transition requires changes in social systems as well

Changing our ways of producing and using materials is not just a matter of technological development; scaling up and successful market introduction asks for interaction with other stakeholders such as financers, other companies, government and eventually also the consumer. This implies that in the transition towards fossil free materials each of us has a role to play. However, because we are often dealing with long production and value chains, it is difficult for each stakeholder to realize their potential power to change things. Changing the logic of the way in which stakeholders interact with each other in a specific sector usually also requires changes in policy, legal rules, financial (dis)incentives, organisational models and cultural norms.

A materials transitions requires collaboration and involves struggle

Successful transformation requires effective collaboration and coalition formation among those that support change in a particular direction, and it may well include struggle with those who strive to maintain the status-quo. Alternative options compete with fossil-based production infrastructures that are fully optimized, and supported by powerful companies and international lobbies. In addition, there is still considerable uncertainty and disagreement about what a fossil-free materials sector could and should look like. There are many questions that remain unanswered, and considerable tensions about how the costs and benefits of new material production systems should be distributed.

Cross-disciplinary systems research is needed

The materials transition requires a combination of (bio)chemical, technological, agronomic, ecological, social, economic, financial, policy and legal solutions, as well as insight into how to link these and bring them about. Thus, the materials transition requires a holistic system’s perspective that fosters effective integration of knowledge from several fields and disciplines, including expertise and perspectives from societal stakeholders on whom transition in society eventually depends critically. As there are many unanswered questions and interdependencies between various options, there is a need to somehow collaborate in formulating questions and lines of investigation, and to ensure that new insights are relevant and become actionable for societal stakeholders.

New methods and approaches for collaboration are needed

Although cross-disciplinary research can be valuable, relevant disciplines and bodies of expertise often operate in isolation and are not connected. And even when they meet, researchers and stakeholders with different backgrounds speak different languages and frequently do not see how they can connect their expertise and/or steer their activities in directions that are useful for others. This leads to sub-optimal learning in transition trajectories, resulting is slow progress. Many of the existing methods for systems research and collaboration remain rather abstract and offer little specific guidance on how widely diverging disciplines and bodies of expertise can integrate their knowledge and collaborate effectively. Especially the translation towards a perspective of action of individual stakeholders has received little attention so far. New methods and approaches are needed to effectively link science and society in the context of transformative ambitions.

The investment theme addresses imagination, maturity and collaboration challenges

Imagination challenges

We explore the potential of new technical, nature-based and/or social-institutional principles and options that are still far from application in society, but may contribute to a materials transition in the long run. We involve various disciplines and societal stakeholders in selecting promising options.

Maturity challenges

We support already existing initiatives in society in identifying and tackling the challenges they meet in scaling technical, nature-based and social-institutional solutions that contribute to a materials transition. Thus, we support learning in these initiatives, which makes them more competitive and mature in their struggle to reduce the use of fossil feedstock.

Collaboration challenges

Overcoming maturity challenges requires ways of working, struggling and co-learning together among stakeholders, as well as constructive interaction between scientists and societal interest groups. In this investment theme we are especially interested in new methodologies, concepts, tools and modes of working that can help bridge different disciplinary and/or societal fields of experience, and/or that support decision-making and strategy development towards further investment and scaling. The methods that we develop are oriented to support systems thinking.

Pathways

To explore the materials transition, the investment theme focuses on two sectors and on four transition pathways. The two sectors are textiles and building materials. The four pathways are; 1) biobased materials, 2) recycling, 3) CO2 capture and utilization technologies, and 4) dematerialization.

Pathways

1. Bio-based materials

Potentially the easiest way to phase out fossil feedstock-based materials is to switch to biobased feedstocks, such as wood, hemp, fungi, or algae. In 2022 some of our funded wildcard projects explored innovations within the biobased pathway. Examples are natural dyes, using algae as construction material, or making pineapple fibers

2. Recycling

Another way to reduce the dependency on fossil feedstocks is it to keep materials in the loop, instead of discharging them. Thus, recycling carbon-based materials is the second technological pathway the investment theme explores. Similar to the other pathways, recycling is complex and connects to related concepts that are captured by the 5 Rs (refuse, reduce, reuse, repurpose, and then recycle). The 5 Rs show how the recycling pathway also connects to dematerialization (refuse, reduce). One of the 5 Rs (repurpose) also connects to the so-called cascading use. This means that insulation for buildings could be made out of old textiles. A nice example, of how our two domains (building materials and textiles) connect.
CO2 capture and utilization technologies.

3. CO2 capture

Finally, the investment theme explores the possibilities of CO2 capture and utilization (CCU) technologies. These technologies are still in their infancy. This means that the investment theme will mostly undertake fundamental research within this pathway. In simple terms, CCU means that CO2 is taken out of the atmosphere and tuned into building blocks (molecules). These building blocks can then be put together to form materials.

4. Dematerialization

Dematerialization is framed as a cross-cutting pathway that does not only encompass technological innovations to realize the materials transition. All transition pathways have a social component, but the dematerialization pathway provides more room for social aspects of the materials transition. Dematerialization is not only about using fewer resources in the production process (efficiency). It is also about consuming less, while living a happy, fulfilled life (sufficiency).

People

This program is been made possible through the passionate work of many people. Much more people than listed on this page are involved in the program and contribute to its progress. We want to highlight that we appreciate the support of everyone involved, especially also the work of Master students and junior researchers.This page is meant to help you find the right contact person for your questions related to the materials transition.

Project managers

Domain leaders Textile

Domain leaders Building materials

Methods and Demonstrations

Core team

Synthesis

Wildcards and other funded projects

Every year the program invites WUR researchers to submit project ideas that fit with the strategic goal of the investment theme. These research projects are called Wildcard projects. The intention of these projects is not only to fit the strategic interest of the program but also to stimulate new research endeavors through seed funding. This is in line with the overall goal of investment themes at WUR, which aims to foster new research and strengthen collaborations within WUR. Link to page that explains investment themes at WUR.

The focus of the Wildcard call and, thus, of the projects varies from year to year to accommodate developments within the program. Nevertheless, the Wildcards need to fit within the two program domains, textiles and building materials.
Apart from the open calls, the program is also granting funding to small projects that address very specific research questions.

Below you can find projects that have been funded so far.

Wildcards 2022

In 2022 the program granted funding to 11 projects. Below you find a list of these 11 projects. During 2022, the wildcard projects were presented at 2 project meetings. To present their work, the project researchers provided posters, for which you can find links below. The projects have been completed in December 2022. The final project reports can also be found below.

Engaging in sustainable bioeconomies: The role of data-driven communication

Researchers

Sanne Kruikemeier, Rens Vliegenthart, Sophie Boerman, Annelien van Remoortere, Paulien Harmsen

Key message

In this project, we investigate how different targeted messages can be effective in influencing citizens’ intention to engage in and attitudes toward sustainable clothing consumption. Based on two studies, this project provides key insights for both scientists and policymakers/activists on how to design an effective information campaign.

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Building WUR-WU Database on new biobased materials to facilitate LCA analysis

Researchers

Marieke Brouwer, Lesly Garcia-Chavez, Ellen Slegers, Iris Vural-Gursel

Key message

In this project we establish a common, structured approach on how data should be collected, upscaled and reported for new biobased processes and biobased materials to be used in (prospective) LCA studies. We apply this approach to viscose production (for textile applications) and isolation material from miscanthus as a first step to build a life cycle inventory database on novel biobased materials.

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Pineapple leaves for high quality fibre and other biobased applications

Researchers

Huib Hengsdijk, Wolter Elbersen, Martien van den Oever, Francisco Alpizar Rodriguez, Silvia Fernandez Gonzalez, Luis Saldivia Gonzatti

Key message

This project explores the use of pineapple crop residues for fibers and other bio-based valorisation options. Based on the understanding of current agronomic, technical, economic, social-institutional and governance bottlenecks involved in the pineapple residue transitions solutions are identified to deal with these bottlenecks.

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Never waste a good crisis

Researchers

Geerten Hengeveld, George van Voorn, Hubert Fonteijn, Luisa Trindade, Esther Koopmanschap, Paulien Harmsen, Jeroen Sluijsmans, Sinéad O’Keeffe, Els Weinans, Natalie Davis

Key message

With most technological solutions available, transformation towards a biobased (textile) economy will require major changes in existing – and often conservative - behavioural patterns. Can modelling provide insight into how externally induced crises can open up windows of opportunity for such behavioural changes to establish and consolidate?

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Seaweed for renewable building materials

Researchers
Reinier Nauta, Maarten Kootstra, Harry Bitter, Tijs Ketelaar, Ben van den Broek, Martien van den Oever

Key message

In this research we want to identify potential streams of seaweed that can be utilized for building material with a assessment on the environmental impact.

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

A methodology to test strategies to increase consumer’s willingness to wear alternative textiles

Researchers

René A. de Wijk, Siet Sijtsema, Betina Piqueras Fiszman

Key message

The newly developed methodology of this study demonstrates the contributions of store and material information on experiences during touching of textile. The type of clothing store and way material information is provide may play a critical role in the acceptance by consumers of more sustainable textile materials.

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Microalgae as SLA 3D printing material

Researchers

Vittorio Saggiomo, Maria Barbosa, Joshua Dijksman

Key message

We developed the first (and only so far), microalgae-based 3D printing material for SLA printers. This material can help with: Dematerialization: it is one of the main points of using 3D printing Biomass: the production of this material (microalgae) uses less water and land compared to plant-based materials -CO2 capturing: microalgae can be fine-tuned to capture an even higher amount of CO2 from the environment

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

The forecast of bio-feedstock availability for material transition: modeling with time-series and machine learning

Researchers

Daoud Urdu, Xuezhen Guo, Marcel Kornelis

Key message

Combining different statistical methodologies, such as time-series analysis and machine learning provides a robust modeling tool to predict bio-feedstock availability while considering forecast accuracy and efficiency.

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Dyes and additives for fossil-free textile chains: linking fibre production, protected cultivation of high-value products and processing 

Researchers

Anja Dieleman, Luisa Trindade, Marieke Bruins, Paulien Harmsen, Mark van Hoogdalem

Key message

In this project, we aim to select a number of interesting crops that could be used as dyes for textiles. Other prerequisites is that these high-value crops can be cultivated in protected cultivation, that concentrations of secondary metabolites can be controlled in a sustainable way to obtain components that may be used as dyes, and that the waste streams of this process can also be valorized.

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Phasing out carbon-based materials in the Fashion industry 

Researchers

Anita Hardon, Josephine van Zeben, Phil Macnaghten, Marloes Moed, Egbert Dommerholt, Paulien Harmsen, Radha Jethu-Ramkrishan-Ramsoedh, Dieuwertje de Wagenaar

Key message

In this project, we seek to learn from innovative efforts to phase out and recycle carbon-based – synthetic - materials in the fashion industry, including initiatives to promote the uptake of alternatives and the growth of niche grassroots initiatives.

Output

Project poster 1 | Executive report

Natural Nanoemulsions for Waterproofing and Softening Mycelium Textiles 

Researchers

Renko de Vries, Costas Nikiforidis, Ben van den Broek, Iris Houthof, Emma Luijtjens

Key message

To make biomass sources such as mycelium more flexible and water repellant nano-emulsions coated with water-soluble polysaccharides can have potential.

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Wildcards 2023

In 2023 the program granted funding to 7 projects. Below you find a list of these 7 projects. They will be completed by December 2023.

Wood it be possible: building sustainable and circular timber-framed houses in the Netherlands?

Researchers

Angelina Horsting, Jop Woltjer, Ute Sass-Klaassen, Bert van de Weil

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Transformative ways to study transformative bioeconomies

Researchers

Marcel Kornelis, Xuezhen Guo, Koos Gardebroek, Daoud Urdu

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Understanding and addressing the motivations and barriers of sustainable clothing consumption

Researchers

Sophie Boerman, Rens Vliegenthart, Sanne Kruikemeier, Paulien Harmsen, Dieuwertje de Wagenaar, Geerten Hengenve

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2

The development of a fossil-free textile chain: the revival of plant-based dyes

Researchers

Mark van Hoogdalem, Anja Dieleman, Luisa Trindade, Marieke Bruins, Paulien Harmsen

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Participatory modelling of pathways in the sustainable textile transition

Researchers

George van Voorn, Hubert Fonteijn, Geerten Hengeveld, Annemarie van Paassen, Paulien Harmsen, Sinéad O’Keeffe, Kim Poldner

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Towards a circular textile economy: enzymatic recycling of textile fibres

Researchers

Tom Ewing, Mattijs Julsing, Mirjam Kabel

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Wool for crop resilience

Researchers

Beatriz Andreo Jimenez, Tess van de Voorde, Alexander van Tuyll, Evelien Maaskant, Paulien Harmsen, Irene Sanchez Andrea

Output

Project poster 1 | Project poster 2 | Executive report

Wildcards 2024

For 2024 we have two categories of wildcards. On the one hand, we are funding four promising follow-up wildcards, on the other, we are funding six outreach projects. The former allows wildcards from 2022 or 2023 to continue with or build on their projects. The outreach wildcards aim at communicating WUR efforts in the fields of the bioeconomy, circular economy, or carbon economy that connect to the Investment Theme’s focus areas textiles, and building materials.

Wool for Crop resilience 2.0

Researchers

Beatriz Andreo Jimenez, Tess van de Voorde, Annelein Meisner, Marta Streminska, Evelien Maaskant, Paulien Harmsen

Output

Project poster 1

Microalgae as SLA 3D printing material: cheaper, greener, faster

Researchers

Vittorio Saggiomo, Iulian Boboescu, Carl Safi

Output

Project poster 1

Towards a circular textile economy: Enhancing enzymatic textile recycling through mechanical pre-processing methods

Researchers

Max Lubberink, Tom Ewing, Peicheng Sun, Mirjam Kabel

Output

Project poster 1

Development of a microbial shortcut for CO2 to ethylene glycol, a valuable building block

Researchers

Maarten Verhoeven, Mattijs Julsing, Lyon Bruinsma, Vitor Martins dos Santos

Output

Project poster 1

Dutch media outreach for wood it be possible constructing timber houses in the Netherlands

Researchers

Angelina Horsting, Job Woltjer

Output

Project poster 1

Raising awareness of a fossil free wardrobe at Dutch Design Week

Researchers

Danielle Van Dijl, Liesbeth Vallinga, Siet Sijtsema, Paulien Harmsen, Sophie Boerman

Output

Project poster 1

Forests, trees and wood. A dialogue on the cutting of trees for the biobased building transition

Researchers

Anne-Charlotte Hoes, Nina de Roo, Jan den Ouden, Jeroen Kruit

Output

Project poster 1

Playbook to disseminate data and modeling activities for the Transformative bioeconomies

Researchers

Daoud Urdu, Koos Gardebroek, Marcel Kornelis, Charlotte Habers, Xuezhen Guo

Output

Project poster 1

Narrative on biobased material value chain

Researchers

Olga Van Der Valk, Coen van Ruiten, Pieter de Wolf

Output

Project poster 1

Oil palm wood furniture: Exploring possibility for business operationalisation

Researchers

Aritta Suwarno, Solen le Clech', Wolter Elbersen

Output

Project poster 1

Other commissioned projects

Apart from the wild card projects, we are also funding small projects to investigate specific research questions. Thus, these projects are not part of an open call but have to address a very specific issue.

Below you see a list of the projects that have been funded so far.

Increasing the role of the financial sector in material transition: The scale-up problem and key lessons

Researchers

Francisco Alpizar, Alfons Oude Lansink, Kaleb Jada

Key message

For the EU to achieve its climate goals, it is crucial to quicken the shift away from fossil raw materials. Finding scalable technologies and directing private funding toward them is necessary to achieve this transition.

Developing and piloting a method to determine bottlenecks for scaling bio-material innovations, and R&D and partnership needs

Researchers

Mariette Campell, Cees Leeuwis

Key message

The bio-material technologies developed by WUR researchers require other complementary innovations before they can scale out successfully and contribute to the transition to a bio-economy. The developed method helps researchers and other stakeholders to conduct a quick-scan of their bio-material innovation, what additional innovations are required, and what strategic partnerships should be established.

Development of renewable textiles from biodegradable polyesters

Researchers

Bhavya Goyal, Sharon Chu, Evelien Maaskant, Wouter Post

Key message

This study builds on a previous study (Maaskant et al. 2023) that describes that phasing out current fossil based polyesters is only feasible if renewable biodegradable alternatives are used that do not accumulate as microplastic particles in the environment. The study suggests that several alternatives (PBS, PBSA and PLA) stand out based on their mechanical performance and biodegradability. The present study aims to demonstrate the processability into yarns of these polymers and studies the physical factors, such as fabric softness, that impact the potential use of these materials in the transition towards a more sustainable textile industry.  

Routes to use CO2 as feedstock for textiles and building materials

Researchers

Daan van Vliet, Maarten Verhoeven, Evelien Maaskant, Wouter Post

Key message

In order to successfully phase out fossil carbon it is crucial that effective and efficient routes are developed to convert carbon dioxide into functional building blocks. This project investigates which of the existing sources and conversion routes are suitable for replacing fossil carbon in textiles and building materials. Subsequently it will defined which research questions require attention to bring these technologies to a higher readiness level and how the expertise of Wageningen University & Research can assist these specific transitions.